Sunday Surprise: When Witches Dance in the Rain
A dispatch from PNW Witch Market—Samhain Edition
Note: While Periplum usually lands in your inbox on Wednesdays, sometimes these cities serve up moments too good to wait. Welcome to our first Sunday Surprise—spontaneous dispatches for those stories that simply can't wait another week.
The morning started with promise at Deru Market in Kirkland, where my friend Ailin and I huddled over brunch, grateful for the unexpected sunshine. After the previous night's apocalyptic rainfall (which had me genuinely worried about my ceiling's integrity), the clear skies felt like a small miracle. As someone who often finds reasons to cancel social plans, I was quietly proud of myself for making it out—though the prospect of missing this market would have haunted me more than any Samhain spirit.
When we arrived at Juanita Beach, the transformation from my last visit to the Beltaine Market last April was striking. What had been an intimate gathering of 30-50 vendors had exploded into a sprawling marketplace of over a hundred booths stretching across the park. While I loved the cozy charm of Beltaine's smaller gathering (see below), this felt like a coming of age.
Ailin—at her first PNW Witch Market but far from her first brush with the metaphysical—navigated the scene with infectious enthusiasm. We wandered between stalls, comparing our crystal collections and trading recommendations for shows and cozy games (both her suggestion of "Over the Garden Wall" and my recommendation for “Strange Horticulture” felt perfectly timed for the season), all while exploring the diverse offerings. The festive atmosphere was irresistible; I found myself purchasing a pair of grey furry ears to get into the Samhain spirit.
Then, about ten minutes in, the skies opened up. Whether it was coincidence or cosmic commentary that this happened just as the religious protesters arrived (armed, ironically, with beautifully designed "Death" tarot cards featuring Bible verses on the back—apparently fighting witchcraft with witchcraft), I'll leave it to interpretation. What followed was a three-hour adventure in extreme Pacific Northwest shopping, as we ducked from tent to tent while vendors valiantly held down their displays against the wind.
Despite the monsoon conditions, the market thrummed with energy. Each dash between shelters yielded treasures: matching dainty silver teaspoons with crystal tops in one tent (plus complimentary black kitten stickers—clearly someone understood their target audience). In another, an elderly vendor's infectious passion for carnivorous plants had Ailin adopting a Venus flytrap, carefully noting care instructions as the rain poured harder.
In what might be the most Seattle moment of all, a lone belly dancer performed on a soaked rug amid the downpour, barefoot and undaunted by the weather. The crowd's enthusiastic applause mixed with the sound of rain and wind, creating an unforgettable moment of awe and collective joy.
Eventually, even the most devoted market-goers have their limits. After hours in the rain, our fingers had gone numb—the morning's sunny optimism that led us to underdress now seemed like a distant memory. As we made our retreat to warmer grounds, something remarkable caught our eye: a fresh wave of visitors arriving, undeterred by the weather. The market was actually getting busier as we left.
We found refuge at LizzyKate tea shop in downtown Kirkland, where hot drinks worked their own kind of magic on our frozen hands. Watching the rain through steamy windows, I finally restored the furry ears to their rightful place after a weather-imposed exile. The staffs’ enthusiastic approval suggested they might become my signature tea-drinking look after all.
This is the city I've come to love—where hundreds gather in any weather for handmade treasures, barefoot dancers perform in the rain, and even the most introverted among us occasionally venture out to find a little magic (though perhaps next time I'll check the forecast first).
Our next regular Wednesday post will explore "Confessions of a Seattle Newcomer—The Unofficial Guide to Blending In (Gore-Tex Required)”
Finding home among Seattle's rain-soaked witches,
Susie
Places Mentioned
🍳 Deru Market
Find them at: @derumarket • derumarket.com • 723 9th Ave, Kirkland, WA
tl;dr: A beloved local spot serving seasonal brunch, fresh-baked goods, and market provisions in a bright, airy space. Weekend brunch draws crowds for their creative comfort food and massive dessert portions.
Insider tip: Weekend brunch is the main thing—join the waitlist at least an hour in advance (here or on Google Maps)! Food-wise, their pancakes and farmer's scramble are my favorites. Don't forget to order a side of cauliflowers! Desserts-wise, the cornmeal bread and the chocolate peanut butter cake are both to die for (warning: the slice of chocolate peanut butter cake is so massive it will take 3 people to finish it)
🫖 LizzyKate Tea Shop
Find them at: @lizzykatetea • lizzykatetea.com • 115 Kirkland Ave, Kirkland, WA
tl;dr: Charming tea shop in downtown Kirkland offering an extensive selection of loose leaf teas and accessories. A cozy refuge perfect for tea exploration and quiet afternoons.
Insider tip: Their walls are lined with tins and tins of dried tea leaves. You can smell them and get recommendations by request!
🛶 Juanita Beach Park
Find them at: 9703 NE Juanita Dr, Kirkland
tl;dr: A waterfront park offering stunning Seattle skyline views, swimming beach, and walking trails. Popular for both casual strolls and community events, with seasonal water activities in summer.
Insider tip: Popular summertime destination for families. The long walkway that stretches out to the water, facing Seattle skyline, is absolutely gorgeous in any weather, at any time. In the summer you can rent kayaks and paddleboards.
🧙♀️ The PNW Witches' Market
Find them at: @pnwwitchesmarket • facebook.com/PNWWitchesMarket
tl;dr: An iconic recurring market featuring over 100 merchants, mystics, and makers. These markets celebrate the eight sabbats of the year, growing from an intimate gathering to one of Seattle's most anticipated seasonal events.
Insider tip: Each market brings its own seasonal magic—spooky delights at Samhain (October), spring renewal at Beltaine (May). You'll find everything from handcrafted jewelry and ritual tools to crystals, tarot readings, and botanical goods. For larger gatherings like Samhain, they provide shuttle service from nearby park-and-rides. Weather is never a deterrent here, so dress accordingly!